GESSI PASHA. 153 ettes ; of which, when made, he rarely smoked more than half, but threw away the remainder to begin another. He expressed great joy at meeting us, and for an hour or two question and answer followed each other in such rapid succession, that to remember the conversation would be impossible. I think I never met a more entertaining companion ; he had an inexhaustible fund of quaint humour and a large collection of anecdotes with which to enliven a conversation. We were with him until December 4, and during the whole time his kindness and consideration were unfailing. His generous hospitality was of great benefit to us, for though his meals were very irregular, sometimes one a day, sometimes two, and sometimes three, yet he always insisted on our sharing them; and we soon found that the change in food and cooking caused a great improvement in our health and spirits. I am sure it is false economy to be without a good cook when travelling in Africa, and Gessi Pasha was not above looking after the kitchen himself, and he would often excuse himself for a minute, saying, " I must see if the soup is all right," or "if that cook is roasting the meat properly." Some of my readers who have all the comforts and luxuries of civilised life at their command may smile, shrug their shoulders, and say, "how much he cares for his dinner ! " and they may consider it beneath the dignity of a Pasha and the commander of an army