152 UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN.

to stand for an hour before using. This plan is also found of service in clearing the muddy Nile water; but for that purpose a somewhat larger quantity of alum is required.

While we were at Djour Ghattas we had several very bad thunderstorms, and I was troubled with more fever than at any other place in Africa.

Probably the unwholesome water and the time of year might in some degree account for this ; for the floods here were beginning to sink as the rains became less frequent ; in fact the harif was nearly at an end in this province.

Gessi Pasha arrived on October 20, and as soon as we heard he had come, we went to pay our respects to him. Seats were placed under the large tree before his compound, and he was surrounded by numerous officers and soldiers. He received us very kindly, and was evidently much pleased to meet Europeans again; but in the presence of the natives we confined ourselves to an interchange of courtesies. Presently, after cofiee and a few minutes' formal talk, he broke up the reception and returned with us to our compound, and then we were able to get some idea of this warm-hearted Italian. He was a small wiry man, very impulsive and vivacious. He had grey hair, bright lively eyes, and highly nervous hands ; he seemed as if he could not sit still for a moment, but was always on the move, and continually occupied in making cigar-