CONTENTS. 7

Breakfast in a Ptolemaic Temple -The Island of Biggeh— Backsheesh— The Cataract — The Granite Quarries of Assouan— The Travellers separate, ... 152

CHAPTER XIII.

Solitary Travel — Scenery of the Nubian Nile — Agriculture — The Inhabitants — Arrival

at Korosko — The Governor — The Tent Pitched— Shekh Abou-Mohammed — Bur-

gaining for Camels — A Drove of Giraffes — Visits — Preparations for the Desert — M y Last Evening on the Nile, 102

CHAPTER XIV.

The Curve of the Nile — Routes across the Desert — Our Caravan starts — Riding on a

Dromedary— The Guide and Camel-drivers — Hair-dressing — El Biban— Scenery — Dead Camels — An Unexpected Visit — The Guide makes my Grave — The River without Water— Characteristics of the Mirage — Desert Life — The Sun— The Desert Air — Infernal Scenery — The Wells of Murr-hat— Christmas — Mountain Chains- Meeting Caravans — Plains of Gravel — The Story of Joseph — Djebel Mokrat — The Last Day in the Desert — We see the Nile again, 1T1

CHAPTER XV.

A Draught of Water — Abou-Hammed — The Island of Mokrat — Ethiopian Scenery —

The People — An Ababdeh Apollo — Encampment on the Nile — Tomb of an English-

man— Eesa's Wedding— A White Arab — The Last Day of the Year — Abou-Hashym — Incidents — Loss of my Thermometer— The Valley of Wild Asses — The Eleventh Cataract — Approach to Berber— Vultures — Eyoub Outwitted — We reach El Mek- heyref— The Caravan Broken up, 193

CHAPTER XVI.

A Wedding — My Reception by the Military Governor — Achmet — The Bridegroom — A

Guard — I am an American Bey — Kerf — The Bey's Visit — The Civil Governor — About the Navy — The Priest's Visit — Riding in State — The Dongolese Stallion — A

Merchant's House -The Town — Dinner at the Governor's — The Pains of Royalty — A Salute to the American Flag — Departure, 206

CHAPTER XVII.

Fortunate Travel — The America — Ethiopian Scenery — The Atbara River — Darner — A

Melon Patch — Agriculture — The Inhabitants — Change of Scenery — The First Hip-

popotamus— Crocodiles — Effect of My Map — The Eais and Sailors — Arabs in Ethio-

pia—Ornamental Scars— Beshir— The Slave Bakhita— We Approach Meroe, 219

CHAPTER XVIII.

Arrival at Bedjerowiyeh— The Ruins of Meroe— Walk Across the Plain— The Pyra-

mids— Character of their Masonry — The Tower and Vault — Finding of the Trea-

sure— The Second Group — More Ruins -Site of the City — Number of the Pyramids — The Antiquity of Meroe — Ethiopian and Egyptian Civilization— The Caucasian Race— Reflections, 229