CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

Leaving the Pyramids— A Calm and a Breeze— A Coptic Visit — Minyeh — The Grottoes

of Beni-Hassan — Doum Palms and Crocodiles — Djebel Aboufayda — Entrance into Upper Egypt — Diversions of the Boatmen — Siont— Its Tombs— A Landscape— A Bath 71

CHAPTER VII.

Independence of Nile Life — The Dahabiyeh — Our Servants — Our Besidenco — Our Man-

ner of Living — The Climate — The Natives — Costume — Our Sunset Bepose — My

j Friend — A Sensuous Life Defended, 85

CHAPTER VIII.

Calm — Mountains and Tombs — A Night Adventure in Ekhmin — Character of the

Boatmen — Fair Wind — Pilgrims — Egyptian Agriculture— Sugar and Cotton — Grain — Sheep — Arrival at Kenneh — A Landscape— The Temple of Dendera— 'First Im-

pressions of Egyptian Ai ' -Portrait of Cleopatra — A Happy Meeting — "We approach Thebes, 98

CHAPTER IX.

Arrival at Thebes — Ground-Plan of the Remains — We Cross to the Western Bank —

Guides — The Temple of Goorneh — Valley of the Kings' Tombs — Belzoni's Tomb — The Eaces of Men — Vandalism of Antiquarians— Bruce's Tomb — Memnon — The Grandfather of Sesostris— The Head of Amunoph— The Colossi of the Plain— Memnonian Music — The Statue of Eemeses — The Memnonium — Beauty of Egyp-

tian Art — More Scrambles among the Tombs — The Bats of the Assasseef— Medee- net Abou — Sculptured Histories — The Great Court of the Temple — We return to Luxor, 113

CHAPTER X.

The Dancing Girls of Egypt— A Night Scene in Luxor— The Orange-Blossom and the

Apple-Blossom — The Beautiful Bemba — The Dance — Performance of the Apple- Blossom — The Temple of Luxor — A Mohammedan School — Gallop to Karnak — View of the Buins — The Great Hall of Pillars — Bedouin Diversions — A Night Bide— Karnak under the Full Moon— Farewell to Thebes, .... 131

CHAPTER XL

The Temple of Hermontis — Esneh and its Temple — The Governor — El Kab by Torch-

light— The Temple of Edfou — The Quarries of Djebel Silsileh — Ombos— Approach to Nubia— Change in the Scenery and Inhabitants — A Mirage— Arrival at As- souan, 145

CHAPTER XII.

An Official Visit— Achmetfs Dexterity— The Island of Elephantine— Nubian Children —

Trip to Pbito— Linant Bey--The Island of Philse— Sculptures— The Negro Kace —