2 UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN.

or two later, the strait between Zanzibar and Pemba

was threaded, the island of Tumbati rounded, and

we were steaming along within a stone's-throw of the

coral strand of one of the loveliest of the many lovely

islands of the Indian Ocean. The view which here

met our eyes the first glimpse to many of us of real

tropical scenery was one of indescribable beauty. The shore was lined with vast groves of feathery date and cocoanut palms, relieved here and there by masses of the sombre foliage of the mango ; groups

of native huts were seen at intervals, surrounded by

their gardens of oranges, pomegranates, bananas, cas-

sava', and many other plants strange to an English

eye ; the comparatively still waters were dotted

with picturesque little fishing-boats, and in mid-

channel were seen the huge white sails of one or two dhows ; while the air was heavy with the scent of

orange-groves and clove-gardens, and musical with

the song of birds and the hum of insects.

Two hours of such scenery, the same though ever

varying brought us in view of the town of Zanzibar.

First, an irregular mass of white buildings was seen,

with the masts of H.M.S. London towering above them ; then slowly the Sultan's palace, the minarets

of some mosques, the houses of the various consuls,

the saluting battery, the rows of dhows drawn up on

the beach, and the ships in the harbour, gay with

the flags of various nations, became distinctly visible. The narrow channel into the harbour was threaded,