THE VAKIL OF REGIAF. 81 African slioiit is certainly enough to shake the nerves of any animal inhabiting this world.

Between Bedden and Eegiaf the character of the river-banks rapidly changes, and instead of hills forming a valley through which the river flows, we have on either side plains extending for miles covered with park-land and large trees. Herds of antelopes and elephants are seen on the right, and flocks of wildfowl frequent the river; we passed at intervals large fields of dhurra surrounding the Bari villages; but this part of the country, owing to the raids of slave-dealers, and afterwards the disturbances caused by Baker's annexations, is not so thickly populated as formerly.

As we approached Eegiaf, we saw the blue masses of Gebel Belinian on the right, and the curious ]\Iount Piegiaf on the left. The width of the river is 560 yards. I had a very hearty reception from my friend Ismaein Abou Hattab, the Yakil of Eegiaf; he is the kindest man I have met amongst the Egyptians. It was a great treat to have a little good cofi*ee and sugar again. He also made me a present of a few candles, a bottle of claret, and a slab of soap, telling me that he had kept these things for me, as he was sure I should return. It was a most generous gift on his part, as for a year no provisions had come from Khartoum. Candles were selling at half a dollar each ; tobacco, soap, cofi'ee, and sugar had been all consumed.

VOL. II. G