318 UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN.

rets, and by-ancl-by the flat-roofed houses came into view, and at last, about noon, we reached the town. Our delight at finding ourselves, after so many dangers and delays, in very truth in Khartoum, was only clouded by the disappointment we felt at hearing that Colonel Gordon had left.

Though rumours of his retirement had reached us at Obeid, we had hoped against hope, and my heart sank when I found that the meeting so long anticipated was still deferred.

We were cordially received by Geigler Pasha, vicegovernor of the Soudan, who had thoughtfully prepared a house for us, in which we were soon established, and where we again enjoyed a real civilised lunch, with knives and forks and a table-cloth.

I noticed a great difference in Khartoum since my first visit, eighteen months previously. The sanitary arrangements were in much better condition, but it is a great mistake that the town is built on its present site. As it lies on low ground at the junction of the Blue and White Nile, in the harif a great part is inundated ; on the other side of the Blue Nile there is much higher ground, and the town, if placed there, would naturally have been more salubrious. In spite of these disadvantages it is rapidly improving; the grand government buildings were nearly finished, many good houses and a large hospital are being built, while shops of a better class are already opened.