HOESES. 243 Vakil of Kalaka. They brandished their spears in our faces, and after inquiring who we were and why we entered their territory, bade iis welcome. They kept up a mimic warfare until we reached the station, which is a collection of miserable brokendown huts. Their horses were small well-bred animals, with much fire, splendidly trained; the men were extremely good horsemen.

We stayed at Kalaka until Christmas Day, on which we had a nice present of dates, olives, sugar, and candles, from Woad Ali Bey, which were all very acceptable. Here I had my first ox ride, but did not much enjoy it. We were to ride horses to Dara, and several were brought for us to try. They had the large Arab saddle and small ring stirrups, just large enough for the four naked toes to enter.

The side of the ring is grasped by the great toe, and we had great difficulty in finding any stirrups large enough to admit even the points of our heavy boots. The first horse I tried bolted with me, and I had a good deal of difficulty in stopping him ; I never rode at such a break-neck pace before ; but with a little patience we succeeded in getting very good animals, and found the saddles very comfortable ; but we were some time in getting accustomed to the stirrups, as we could not ride barefooted, as the Arabs do here.

About noon on Christmas Day we said good-bye to Saati Efi'endi and our late escort, and set ofi" with r2