CONTENTS xix

CHAPTER XIX

FAGS

I become village magistrate—Makowa, the god of practical jokes

Sheikh Chabindji is a fond father—The Mongaiyat hills—The

tsetse fly operative again— Slaughter of game—The value of

beads—Adherence to tribal customs— Sultans mere landless

lords—The sheikhs are lazy—Many compliments . . . 246

CHAPTER XX

Wau— Its future—When Greek meets Greek—Local colour—Giant

eland — Administration of justice at Wau — A judgment of Solomon and a cure for suicide—The day's work at Wau—An

old cock ostrich—-Building operations at Wau—Yambio's war- drum—Impressing the " politicals "—A native elephant-slaying

machine—A modern John Baptist— Patrol work—The value of

missionary enterprise—Success of my gramophone—My orders 261

CHAPTER XXI

My "magic" receives a set back—Telegraph poles in the forest Count Teleki—Captain Percival—A pretty picture—Bok— His

pride humbled—The country to the north-west— Insolence of

the Dinkas—Teleki's audience—Mayar accompanies me to Wau — I get my leave— I return to Cairo and hear of my appoint- ment—Acting-Governor of tfelfa Province—My work at Haifa —Various cases for trial—Minor interests ..... 276

CHAPTER XXII

I relinquish my post to the "real turtle"—And go patrolling—Nile

country—The bitter cold—The desert—" Terabil "—Bir el Nakhla—The oasis of Taklis—Good going— Bir el Sheb—

A

grim joke—Tudway Bey—Terfaui—^The ruins at Selima—Sports —An Arab fable 289

CHAPTER XXIII

Sandy plains—The entomologists' opportunity and a picture for an

artist—Traces of an oryx—God-laid and man-laid stones

Beautiful pebbles—A salt-well and niggardly Nature—A long-