HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 95 subservient as articles of food are to be met with ; for the inhabitants keep their stock and provisions concealed. But no sooner do they hear that the traveller is a Frank, than they bring him everything he asks for ; their demands are very moderate, and they frequently will not accept anything in return. They are also very attentive in procuring everything he may require for his journey onwards; whereas the Turks frequently have, in this respect, to suffer a deficiency of many things. The natives of Kordofan are altogether the best tempered people in the world, if they are but treated with common civility, and differ widely from their neighbours in Sennaar, who although under the same government, situate under the same degree of latitude, and for the most part of the same race, are of totally different disposition.

The villages, more especially lying on the borders of the country, form an exception to the former rule, and are not in the best odour with the natives themselves. The traveller should, more particularly, be on his guard at Haraza, on the road to Dongola; Ledet, on the road to KJiartoom ; and Caccia on the road to Darfour; the last mentioned village is of all the most formidable. In travelling through Haraza, I myself took an active part in a scene which might have proved of very evil consequences, if my servant had not been able to intimidate the son of the sheikh with an excusable falsehood. At this place it is necessary to take in a supply of