76 THE STORY OF THE KHEDIVATE.

to one nationality over another — all were alike welcome.

Looking back at the past, with the benefit of my later and fuller acquaintance with Egypt and its then administration, I cannot doubt orders were given to all local authorities that the visitors should be allowed to look, as little as possible, behind the scenes. Excursions and entertainments were arranged for every day well-nigh of their stay. The visitors, as a body, saw as little of the work-a-day Egypt as the Empress Catherine saw of the Siberia through which she was conducted by Prince Potemkin. The Nile railroad had recently been opened as far as Minieh, about a hundred miles south of Cairo, and I happened to mention to an official, with whom I had struck up an acquaintance, my intention of going to Minieh to see the sugar factories, which the Khedive had recently erected. I saw at once my suggestion was not welcome. I was told it would be quite impossible for me to obtain any accommodation in the town, and was begged to postpone my visit till arrangements could be made for my fitting reception.

Naturally the arrangements were never made. In common with all fresh visitors to Cairo, I was anxious to see the Pyramids at once, but was informed I must wait till the carriage road was completed. Being young then, and active, I immediately engaged a donkey at my own expense, and found no difficulty in getting to my destination. But once there, inexperienced as I was, I soon perceived the reason why