Lake No — Bor.

76 Place.

Milea. Kilomttres.

6 -3 O o a> 13 M Description.

South end of true and false channels and of block 15 Land approaches east edge of channel North channel to Bahr EI Zeraf Mouth of Yei (?) North enfl old false channel Ex block No. 16 „ 17 „ „ 18 South end of block No. 18 Bahr El Zeraf .

Shambe...

1.-) 21 33 5 18 2 3 Ifi,-) ■m5 1 ! 166 187 220 22.-) .la 243 SOI 24.') 245* 249 249 256 kl2 said to skirt the dry laud. On the we.9t a line of fair-sized trees at a distance of, perhaps. 2 miles, shows that the swamps in tliat direction also have a limit. A very noticeable feature of these expanses of water is their lifelessness. No birds arn to be seen, and hippopotami appear to avoid them altogether. At mile 163 the lakes end, and a fresh network of branching streams confront the navigator. Here, again, very careful steering and knowledge of the passage to be followed is required. Each year these channels change. What is, in one season, the deepest channel, is, perhap.s, tlie next year impassable. For some 5 miles the river is split up into many different branches, all winding through papyrus swamp. At mile 165 the true channel of the river is reached. The change is startlingly sudden, as the depth suddenly increases from 4 to 21 feet. Instead of a twisting stream, the Bahr El .Jebel again becomes a fine open river, some SO to 90 yards in width, bounded by a high fringe of papyrus on either side. The false channel leaves the river at an angle of nearly 90 degrees. In April, 1900, the junction was blocked by sudd, but this was liglit and easily removed. Large shallow lagoons extend on either bank, separated from the river by a belt of papyrus. The high land to the west ends about a mile from the river, and the swamp recommences. To the east a line of palms, perhaps, 6 or 7 miles distant, not improbably indicates the banks of the Bahr El Zeraf. Above this point the Bahr El Jebel widens out for some distance. In places its breadth is as much as 200 yards, and its depth from 15 to 18 feet. The swamps continue as before. At mile 166 the high land approaches the river on the east, and runs parallel to it for some 2 miles. It is covered with bush and an occasional Euphorbia. At this point a khor joins the Nile on the west bank, bringing in a strong stream of water. Two villages (Nuer) are to be seen in the distance ; these are probably Favor and Fatooah of the German map (Julius Perthes). The mean velocity now averages \\ miles per hour. Between miles 175 and 200 the high land and bush before mentioned touches the eastern bank at intervals. At luile 187 there is a break in this ridge, and two or three channels leave the Nile to the east. These are said by the natives to be the most northerly outlets of the Bahr El Zeraf. In 1900 a fine deleib palm stood on the water's edge at this point. This formed a landmark tliat could be seen for miles. It has now, unfortunately, fallen into the river. At mile 220, and again at mile 223, channels come in fiam the west bringing water to the Jebel. These streams may possibly be the mouths of the River Rodi, or Sfei, which is supposed to join the Nile somewhere in this locality. At mile 225 the false channel, which, previous to the clearance of blocks 16 to 19, was the only navigable line, joins the river. This was the route followed by Major Peake and Lieut. Drury in 1900, in making the journej' to the upper Nile. They found the passage very difficult. During the transit they bent their rudder twice, and went aground four times. From this point numerous channels join the Bahr El Jebel on both sides. Many islands, covered with ambach and papyrus, separate the stream into numerous branches, and the whole country is once more a waste of swamp. The Bahr El .lebel heie is e-xtremely narrow (25 to 30 yards), but is from 18 to 22 feet deep. The fa'se channel in app:;arance far more resembles the main river than does the true one.

It is hard to imagine that this narrow, twisting sti'eam can be the Nile. Its windings are worse than ever. A tree or a boat may be visible at a comparatively short distance ahead, and yet many miles of channel must be traversed before it is reached. The river here runs nearly due west, while the false channel follows an easterly course, jiassing through numerous shallow lakes, until it joins the main river again at mile 249. At mile 240 the Jebel widens out again, and more resembles a river in appearar.ce than it did. Its average breadth is from 50 to 60 yards, and its depth is some 15 feet. Between this point and mile 248 occurred the four sudd obstructions, removed in February, 1901, by Lieut. Drury, R.N., and which were known as blocks Nos. 16, 17, 18, and 19. At mile 249 the Bahr El Zeraf takes off from the Nile, following the false channel for some distance, before branching off to the east. The width of this river at the head is about 30 yards, and the outlet is surrorrnded by a sea of marsh. Just up-stream of this poirrt there is a severe berrd in the Nile, which might one day give trouble. As the steamer passes, decomposed sudd rises to the surface.

The general character of the landscape now changes, as land arrd forest ai'e visible to the west, and at mile 253 from Lake No, the Shambe lagoon or khor is reached. This is a large lake, some 3 to 5 miles in length, and mor-e tharr \\ miles in breadth. Its depth averages 4 feet. The post of Ghaba Shambe is situated in north latitude 7° 6' 30", on the west bank of its lagoon, at a distance of 1| miles from the river. The land here is about 2 feet over the water, but rises as the forest is reachetl. It is a dreary -looking sijot, consisting of a mud-brick house inside a rnutl {)arapet, antl a rruzl, and a few " tukls " erected on the flat shore of the lake ; garrison of 25 men ; a Dinka village lies not far off. Shambe