THE TOILERS OP THE NILE. 97 it with pride and satisfaction, provided always it be thoroughly disreputable —for otherwise where would be the merit—but failing this he is content with the helmet worn as I have described. In this attire, and with a convenient post or tree to lean against, or with a rail or a bank to sit on, he enjoys the assertion of his dress of his momentary freedom from restraint, and feels that he has for the time being retired into private life where care cannot reach him till the next bugle call.

“Despite the good-will and spirits of officers and men, however, the voyage was not wholly enjoyable. Throughout the day all were exposed, without hope of cover, to the scorching glare of the sun. No movement among the men on board could be permitted, for when any man stood up for a moment, the reis or native captain called upon his gods, danced upon the tiller, and vowed that wreck was inevitable if his view should be obstructed. These wily natives soon discovered that implicit reliance was likely to be placed on them, and that they would be humoured in any little whims they chose to display regarding their own particular province. This being the case, they lost no opportunity of harassing the men whenever occasion offered.

“ After the great heat of the day the change of temperature at night was most appreciable. The men were provided with but one blanket, which was quite insufficient to protect them from the night air. The night can hardly be said to be cold here, but between 4 p.m. and 4 a.m., there is a fall in the thermometer of never less than 50 degrees, and the effect of this change of temperature, combined with the absence of any stimulant for the men, was a considerable amount of coughing and huskiness in the early morning, which continued until the men’s throats had been thawed by the sun.

“The absence of all stimidant is a very serious matter to the English soldier. In time of peace, where his strength and endurance are not tasked in any way, he has at hand the regimental canteen, where he «an purchase a moderate supply of liquor. But here he has no canteen, and even if he were allowed to do so can purchase no stimulant but the horrible na ive beer, a most undesirable beverage.

“When the boats were within two days of their journey’s end, a mishap occurred which, though fortunately without serious result, entai'ed the loss of one boat. The matter happened thus. All the difficult rapids had been passed, and over 200 miles of river covered without mishap of any kind. The boats had reached a place on the west bank named Kassikon, some ten miles below the cataracts of Hannek. At Kassikon the river takes an awkward turn and is much broken by sunken rocks and one or two small islets. The channel runs under the west bank, and as a strong head wind was blowing it was necessary to tow the boats for about a mile. This operation had been satisfactorily performed by all the boats save one, under command of Lieut.