2IO EGYPT AND THE SOUDAN.

mountain in which are numerous interesting grottoes and ancient remains, and is, in fact, on an island formed by a fork or branch of the main stream. This branch stream is crossed by an arched bridge built of stone, and beyond this commences the ascent of the mountain; thence fifteen minarets can be counted rising amidst groves of palm and acacia, and the view from the hills over the town of Assiout and the green plain is very charming in the early part of the year, when the almost dazzling green verdure stretches for miles on either side " unbroken," as Dean Stanley said, " save by the mud villages which here and there lie in the midst of the verdure like the marks of a soiled foot on a rich carpet." Assiout is really a fine town, with many good houses belonging to the merchants and others, exceedingly handsome baths with a beautiful marble fountain, first-rate bazaars and shops where all kinds of commodities are sold, and where the best pipe bowls in Egypt are a great feature since they are of local manufacture. There are several schools, institutions, and missions, the most important being in connection with the American consular agency.

But the caravan trade with Assiout had been declining even before the troubles in the Soudan, and the local industries — pottery and indigo-dyeing — and- the commerce in cotton and opium, had considerably fallen off at the time of the occupation of the port by our " preparations." The great canal which conducts the water to the town at high tide, the fine embankment planted with handsome trees leading from the landing-place to the town, and the picturesque entrance by a grand old gateway and a large courtyard forming a part of the governor's palace, were all significant of Oriental repose, and now here was a complete topsyturveydom of European hurry and excitement, not only at El Hamra, the small village on the river-bank which claims to be the port, but at the railway station between this port and the town, at the post and telegraph office, and even in the ancient streets and sequestered places of the city itself.

Assiout is in many respects one of the most attractive towns in Egypt, and it is with regret that the visitor leaves its baths with the fine dome supported by pillars of red granite, and fountain and