~ CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

FROM CAIRO TO THE ATBARA

PAGE Correspondents’ Permits—Academic Obstacles—Fellow-

Passengers to Alexandria—French Animosity in Egypt — Indifferentism of Egyptian Natives— An

Interesting Dinner—Preparations for the Campaign —Egyptian Magic—A Native “ Medium”—Ali buys a Sword — Departure from Cairo—A Matrimonial

Quarrel—Rumours about the Khalifa—Discomforts of the Night Journey—The Luxor Hotel—Malevolent

Spiders—Karnak—By Rail to Shellal—Imbecility of Ali’s Brother — Hospital Arrangements — Dreariness of a Nile Voyage—Cheerfulness of Tommy Atkins— A Classic Tale of Horror—Death of a Soldier—From Wady Halfa in a Cattle Truck—Abu Ahmed—First

Night at the Atbara—Chequered Career of the £7 Tahra—Life at Atbara Camp—The Plagues of Egypt up to Date— Perverse Camels — Failure of our Attempts to overtake Lancers . ‘ . I

CHAPTER II

FROM THE ATBARA TO WAD HAMED

A Crowded Ghyassa—A Talking Mummy—Slatin Pasha

—Animal Life on the Banks—The Pyramids of Meroe — Work for Archzologists —A Gaalin Sheikh—A Dervish Deserter—Abu Klea—A Sandstorm—Arrival

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