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ARRIVAL AT KABREGA’S. 59 -Kyai keeping to our right, till at length we left the mountainous defile, entering again into high grass and reeds, and pausing at last to rest by a small brook with clear bubbling water, which flowed over mica slabs and tasted strongly of iron. Grey cows, possessing neither horns nor humps, stood in the water (they destroy the horns of the cattle here as soon as they commence to grow, by cauterising them with a red-hot iron, in order to enable them to pass with greater ease through the tall grass and the jungle). All the houses lay at a distance from the road. Probably in order to impress the stranger with the immense size of the land, and therefore with the greatness of its ruler, he is led round about for days through the high grass, when the direct route would hardly occupy three . marching hours. The country is said to be well peopled. Soon after crossing the small khor, we found ourselves again between rows of mountains, several summits of which may attain an altitude of from 1500 to 2000 feet above the general elevation of the country, which is probably as much as 4000 feet. Then followed cultivated fields, with many miniature votive huts, erected with the idea of obtaining a good harvest. Giant reeds came next, and at last the mountains opened out, and before us lay Mpara-Nyaméga, Kabréga’s headquarters, Unyoro’s capital. The huts which had been prepared for me lay to the left of the road, upon a hill, above which high mountains towered. ‘The spot is about ten minutes distant from the great compound of huts which comprises the king’s residence, and which, with another compound lying near it, forms the village. Our goods were hardly under shelter when the rain began to pour and the thunder to roll. Late in the evening Katagrua, Kabréga’s prime minister, once a companion of Baker’s, came to visit me and to bring me his master’s greetings. Kabréga had intended to receive me immediately, but was prevented doing so on account of the rain. For the same reason it had been impossible for him to gather together for me any kind of present, and therefore he begged me to excuse it. I simply remarked that I was very much obliged to his sovereign, but that I was not come in order to receive presents. Makango Bkamba, whom J had sent with my greetings to the king, brought me the promise of an audience to-morrow.

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