NEAR. KABREGA’S RESIDENCE. 55 shrubs. We then once more arrived at clearings, where bananas, sweet potatoes, and lubias intermingled, and here and there the green stalks of maize were seen, or the broad leaves of Virginian tobacco, Compounds containing three or four huts lay scattered throughout the cultivated land. They were hemispherical, and their grass roofs stretched down to the ground all round, except where a porch was formed over the door. The frames were made of light reed wickerwork and supported by ~-numerous poles. Inside, the huts were not exactly inviting ; they were divided into two compartments, the floors of which were covered with hay, and infested by innumerable mice, cockroaches, crickets, and fleas. Household utensils were not numerous, for the inhabitants had fled before us, taking all. their treasures with them.

We halted at Kitongali, in one of these clearings, where I was fortunate enough to obtain three huts for myself, my people, and my belongings. Here I had the pleasure of a visit from the village chief, a good-looking young man, whose father is Kabréga’s confidant. He made quite an imposing figure, being clad in thin white skins, over which a reddish-brown mbugu hung like a toga; his servant bore after him a double-barrelled sporting-gun. The usual presents having been exchanged, he sent a messenger to Kabréga to apprise him of my approach, for the next day we expected to reach our destination. If, however, I understand African ceremonials rightly, many a day will still pass before I reach Kabrega’s, although we are quite near to his residence. It is always uncomfortable to travel during the rainy season, because you are never master of the situation, which, indeed, leaving the rain out of question, is rarely the case. From midnight the thunder rolled on all sides, thick fog enveloped the country, and it rained as if it were absolutely necessary for the clouds to rid themselves of their whole contents that day. Of course, it was no good thinking of further progress in such weather ; and to make matters worse, my hut was not water-tight. I had seen-none of my people that day, for, on account of the rain, and possibly also of hunger—for meat does not satisfy them, and corn could not be obtained—they were having a long sleep.