46 MRULI TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

cold in the mornings! Yesterday morning at six o'clock we had 60° Fahr., and to-day only 59°, which really 7s cold. We get to the fire and miss our warm coffee, but a few maize cobs answer the same purpose, and afford warmth as well as nourishment.

To save time, I gave orders for the onward march, notwithstanding the want of my things and the threatening rain-clouds, but we had hardly passed the mud puddles just beyond the village and climbed the hill, when the rain poured down in torrents, and compelled us to turn aside into the bush, that is, to seek a small zertba away from the road and rest there. After about an hour and a half the rain fortunately ceased, and we had hardly advanced a couple of miles between walls of high grass when Kanagurba’s people came rushing towards me and said that he had marched past us in the rain, and was awaiting us in the banana groves that lay ahead.

The little river Kairira rushes over the road between blocks of gneiss mixed with mica; its course can be made out for a long distance by huge date palms; its water is cold, and clear as crystal. Immediately beyond it are some swamps, with the indispensable bridges made of round sticks, and then the road rises to the bananas of the village of Kasidié, where we were to take up our night quarters. Kanagurba had arrived before me, and after waiting some time, the porters too arrived with my things, led by Mréko, who came to pay me a visit. One must say this for the Waganda, that they have an immense amount of bounce, and are, one might say, so unconsclously impudent that one gets angry with them a hundred times only to laugh at them in the end.

We had hardly settled down, when one of Mtésa’s messengers, dressed in clean bark cloth, appeared with an English letter for me, which informed me that my house was ready, but that I might rest for two days at each place on the way, in order not to overtire myself. I am now highly delighted that I marched yesterday and to-day. From here to Mt¢sa’s is only four hours, and yet I shall be compelled to spend three or four days on the way ; so that yesterday’s march has gained me at least four days. To explain how I came by the English letter, I think I must mention that a young Suaheli, who was once Stanley’s ser-