38 MRULI TO RUBAGA IN UGANDA.

which we had to go. At last, after a vast amount of persuasion, we started, and went right into the swamp, which is here nearly two miles broad, At first we were only knee-deep in mud, thick grass, and papyrus, the appearance of which so far from the river surprised me greatly ; but soon the water deepened, and we were quickly up to the neck in it, and that for a long time—longer than we liked. ‘The loads had to be balanced on the head, and great care to be taken to prevent falling, especially as the mud was tenacious like pitch, and stuck to the soles of our feet. Added to this were the burning sun, the enats, and the bad-smelling exhalations from the swamp—a real African treat! Step by step the procession moved forward, and, mirabile dictu, this day again no harm befell us.

The playing of flutes and noise of song celebrated our arrival on terra firma, and after crossing the low hills which dam up the swamp, we plunged again into the banana groves, until a large open space with shady trees bade us rest. The porters, whose unshaken good-humour was again a source of wonder to me, well deserved the huge vessels full of mwénge which were quickly requisitioned from the surrounding houses; and my guides, too, after conducting a sham fight, did not neglect to indulge in the pleasure of a drink. ‘This very straggling place is called Tama. Masses of bananas, a great deal of white maize and red durrah, both ripening, sweet potatoes, and a very large number of colocasias grow here. ‘The latter seem to have run wild in the muddy soil, which suits them well; at any rate they cover the land for a great distance, while usually they are only found singly, planted round huts. Their tubers are very large, and are pure white.

The banana plantations are generally very well kept; but once a year the grass in them is allowed to shoot, and is then pulled up and placed in great bunches around each banana plant, this being the only manure employed. When the rotting is at an end, which very soon takes place, absolutely no blade of grass can be found between the stems, and the grove looks like a huge and very carefully kept garden. ‘There are in Uganda three kinds of bananas, which are known by the natives through their leaf and stem—<Xeyk, with small insipid fruits, used only