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BETWEEN THE VICTORIA AND THE ALE JEU IOS —— ee 1. A VISIT TO THE VICTORIA LAKE.

(February 13, 1878.)

LANDSCAPE SCENERY—LUXURIANCE OF VEGETATION—BODIES OF THE EXECUTED ON THE SHORES OF THE LAKE—THE MURCHISON CREEK —BOATBUILDING.

AFTER considerable pressure King Mtésa had at last granted me permission to make an excursion to the lake. It was important to set out for our destination as soon as possible, so as to forestall the childish whims of the ruler, in case he changed his mind and forbade my leaving; a small present to the guide assigned to me happily induced him to be remarkably obliging, and we were thus able to set off immediately.

The morning sun was shining dimly through dull clouds; a grey nust was hanging over the country far and wide, above which the ridges of scattered hills appeared like islands, and conspicuous among them was the long range of the table-shaped mountain Mtundwe. We passed Mtésa’s palace and descended into a marshy plain, the passage through which was facilitated by a very primitive dyke, and two still more primitive bridges, made of small logs of wood. On all the hills which we subsequently passed people were industriously employed, new fields and plantations were springing into existence, and bonfires of plucked-up grass sent forth clouds of smoke and the smell of burning. The women were busy digging in the fields, planting sweet potatoes or plucking up the grass; the men were building houses or enlarging and clearing the road, which