GAZIRAT AL-MALIK the water became too deep for poling we had to depend entirely upon the rope, on which every one of us hauled with all his might.

Gradually the boat came through the " gate," but only a few inches at a time, and for nearly an hour it was doubtful if the river would not conquer us in the end. We dragged the boat into a little bay just before sunset, and then discovered that we were little more than half way to Semna. We had spent the whole day in coming about ten miles ! To attempt to reach Semna that night was hopeless, so we pushed on a little further to the Island of Gazirat al-Malik, where we heard there were some natives living. We reached the island soon after sunset, and determined to stay there for the night. We climbed up the west bank, passing through crops of dhurra, and came to a small collection of mud huts which were situated at the foot of the hills that line the east bank of the island. A few men came out to receive us, and they seemed much astonished at our coming, but they found a couple of disused huts, which were without roofs, and so soon as these were cleared out we took possession of them.

The Inspector sent a messenger on to Semna to bring back our servants with the food, for we assumed that they had arrived there by that time, but we knew that some hours must elapse before they could appear, and we therefore set going the spirit lamp which we had in our "emergency box," and boiled some Bovril. We also lit a fire before the huts, for the night was bitterly cold. The women of the hamlet ground some dhurra, and made " wafer " bread, which was most acceptable, and the men brought branches of trees and a little palm leaf matting, and put roofs on our huts. About ten o'clock the Inspector's servant appeared with his cooking-pots containing the dinner he had had waiting for us at Semna, and after the exertions of the day we enjoyed our meal. The next morning we sailed up the river until the channel became blocked with rocks, and then we landed and rode on camels to Semna, which we reached a little before noon. When we arrived at the temple there were several natives awaiting us, and we were glad to find that they had brought ankaribs and firewood ; as the village of Semna is about a mile and a half to the south of the Cataract, which is just below 475