THE EGYPTIAN SUDAN who acted as guides were full of stories of inscribed stones which they had seen, but when we arrived at the places where these were, we generally discovered them to be stones with rough chisel marks on them. We passed a great many ruins of workmen's houses near the old quarry and mining works, but found no inscription of any sort or kind among them. It was quite clear that in ancient times SS.i owed ij:s importance to its quartz strata, from which gold was dug out by the natives. We walked over immense layers of agglomerate containing flints, agates, carnelians, &c. As we were re-embarking a native woman brought one of the largest water melons I had ever seen in the Sudan and wanted to sell it ; money she declined, saying that it was useless, but the purchase was effected by means of an exchange of some tobacco, and the crew were delighted to receive the melon as a gift.

After leaving the southern half of Sai we passed through some lovely river scenery, and about two o'clock reached Kuwekka, where we were welcomed by that most kind and hospitable man, Shekh Idris. He insisted on our staying the night in his house, and had our beds and baggage taken out and carried to two large rooms, which he reserved for guests whom he delighted to honour.

The shekh was an old friend of the Inspector, to whom he appeared to be greatly attached, and he valued his opinion highly. He is a somewhat spare man, about 5 feet 8 inches in height, and dark-skinned ; his face is open and pleasing, and his eyes are bright and intelligent, and see everything. His wit is quick, and he has a most pleasing smile. Had he lived in the days of the Pharaohs he would assuredly have been an " inspector of the countries of the south," and his astuteness would certainly have " filled the heart " of the king, his lord, with satisfaction.

Years ago he and his people laughed at the pretensions of the Mahdi and the Khalifa, and remained loyal to the Government during the Dervish Rebellion, but their devotion cost many their property, and some their lives. Idris himself was too quick for the Dervishes, and managed to escape from them, although they succeeded in wounding him ; the narrative of his escape is most interesting, and the story of his encounters with the rebels deserves to be done into writing. Idris is descended from a 458 J