THE EGYPTIAN SUDAN shaving soap, a pocket knife, and a compass, things which previous experience had shown me were greatly prized by the natives both in Mesopotamia and in Egypt. Some brightly coloured handkerchiefs, two little cases filled with needles of all sizes and kinds, and a couple of cakes of very highly-scented soap, gave great pleasure to his wife and her friends, and a small sugarloaf, about three pounds in- weight, won for me the temporary affection of the two boys who scared the birds from the dhurra.

The shekh was very anxious to go to Cairo with me, so that he might press his claims on the Government in person, but I explained to him that before he could travel on the steamer he must have the Sirdar's permission. Finally we parted, and when I caught a last glimpse of him as we passed down the river, he was standing on the river bank in that dignified attitude which is so characteristic of the natives of the better class, looking after the boat ; just behind him were the two ladies of the clearing, and near them were the two boys, who were evidently more ready to watch the steamer than to scare the birds. The shekh was very kind and hospitable, and I was glad to see him again in February, 1905, when he appeared at the pyramids in his gorgeous " robe of honour." I le had prospered greatly since I saw him in 1899, and had married more wives, and been blessed with offspring ; but it seemed to me that the condition of his finances left something to be desired, for he wished to borrow money to pay his train fare to and from Khartum, whither he was most anxious to go in order to present a petition praying for the restoration of certain lands to which he laid claim. He was too old to work, but he had left in him sufficient energy and strength, to which we may add foolishness, to embark in what most Orientals revel in and enjoy above all things—a lawsuit ! A few hours' steaming brought the Burden to the place where Midwinter and his colleagues were camped, and they welcomed me most kindly. The following morning they took me to see the works which were in progress in connection with the making of the bed of the railway, and described the methods they followed in building culverts, drains, &c. The portion of the Island of Meroe through which they were then passing was full of stone hills, and the difficulties which they had to surmount 280 i i