AN ABORTIVE START 23

long years. I flattered myself that now I should have to contend face to face with material difficulties only, before I

realized my schemes ; so that when I saw all my bales and packages and the sections of the Davoiist^ with absolutely nothing missing, lying symmetrically arranged on the quay of the Dakar St. Louis railway, it was one of the happiest hours of my life. It has often been said that the most

difficult part of an expedition is the start. Well, I thought

I had started, and was now sure of success. Alas ! what a humbling disillusioning was before me !

Thanks to the hearty co-operation of everybody, including the Governor, M. de Lamothe, and the Naval Commander,

M. Du Rocher, Baudry had got everything ready for me.

There was, however, no time to be lost. An accident to

her screw had delayed the Brazil three days, and we must

start immediately for the Upper Niger, so we were off for St. Louis the very next morning. The sections of the Davotist were of an awkward shape, and being only

hastily packed and tumbled on board anyhow at Bour- deaux, danced a regular saraband in the open wagons of the line, and I felt rather anxious about my poor vessel. But never mind, she would have plenty of bumping about

later, and I wasn't going to make myself miserable about her on this auspicious day.

Just a couple of words about the Dakar St. Louis railway. The Cayor, as the country it traverses is called,

is slightly undulating, badly watered, and dreary looking. The natives living in it were hard to subdue. In continual

revolt, they more than once inflicted real disasters on the

French by taking them by surprise. At Thies the whole

garrison was massacred, at M' Pal a squadron of Spahis perished, for the Cayor had chiefs such as the Darnels, Samba-Laobe and Lat-Dior, the last champions of resistance who became illustrious in the annals of Senegambia — real