198 JOURNEY FROM At Hudia there is a remarkable hill, through which gypsum protrudes itself in almost every part ; it terminates in a conical mound of pure gypsum, so smooth as to have the appearance of ice, the diameter of the coije, at its base, being about thirty feet. We found the valleys between the hills very fertile, producing, among other flowers, a variety of wild geraniums, singularly mixed with a species of leek, which flourishes there in great abundance. The water was collected in a hollow between the hills, and having lately received a fresh supply from the rains, was found to be tolerably sweet.

Neither its flavour nor its clearness were however much improved by the provident cares of our Arab conductors, who began to wash their caps and baracans in it before we were aware of their intentions ; and it may readily be supposed that these articles of dress, which were almost the only ones that our friends possessed, and which had certainly not been washed since they left Tripoly, could not be particularly clean.

With this water, however, we managed to commemorate Christmas day, which occurred while we were at Hudia, in a much better manner (so far as conviviahty was concerned) than we should have been able to do, had it fallen a few days later, in the barren, rocky country which ensued, where no water is to be found at all. It may be imagined by some that conviviahty and dirty water are by no means compatible with each other ; but when the necessaries of life become luxuries they will always be appreciated as such ; and there are many occasions on which they who might think it impossible to make merry without wine, would feel themselves both