VOVAGE DOWN THE NILE. 487 The morning after my arrival at Wadi Haifa all was ready. A few children came down to greet me with the hateful word "backsheesh," which I had not heard for three months and hoped never to hear again ; but a few Arabic exclamations soon put them to flight. "We shoved away from the beach, followed by the cries of a dozen lazy sailors, who also wanted backsheesh for saying " salaam'''' at parting. I stretched myself out on my bed, on deck, and lay looking on the receding shore, where my camel-men and camels (Abou-Sin still among them) were encamped. Abou-Sin's head was turned towards the river, as if looking for his master, for the hapless creature certainly thought I should go over to mount him on the morrow. Alas, my brave old dromedary ! we shall never again play friendly tricks upon each other. Rais Ramadan took his station at the helm, and the boys plied their oars actively, so that we soon lost sight of Wadi Haifa. All the afternoon we glided slowly down the stream between rich palm-groves and grain-fields. The appearance of thrift and fertility, which the country presented, was most agreeable after the waste fields of Dongola, and the unproductive rocks and sands of the intermediate districts. The mountains behind were lower and rounder in their outlines, and the landscapes softer an richer than any I had seen since leaving beautiful Dar Shygheea. By sunset we had made such good progress, that there was every hope of reaching Abou-Simbel in the morning.

There was no wind during the night, and the boys worked bravely. About two hours after midnight I was awakened from a deep sleep by the shock of the boat striking the shore.

I opened my eyes and saw, as I lay, without moving my head,