THANKSGIVING AND PARTING. 485 look forward to seeing Cairo in another month. Not until we were all seated in the ferry-boat, crossing from the opposite bank, did I fairly realize that our severe journey was over.

The camels were left behind, the baggage piled up on board, and as we were rowed slowly across the river, it suddenly flashed through my mind that the same gentle motion of oars and waves was thenceforth to rock me all the way to Cairo.

I drew a long breath, and fervently ejaculated : " el hamdu lillah ! " to which the others, as in duty bound, responded. Achmet, who usually postponed his prayers until he reached home, recited a chapter from the Koran, and Ali, who never prayed, broke into sailor-songs by starts, and laughed continually, from inward delight.

After my tent was pitched on the beach, I called my camelmen, Ali and Mohammed, who had crossed with me, and gave them each the forty piastres still due, with a Maria Theresa dollar — abou-zerar, or the Father of Buttons, as this coin is called in Central Africa, from the button which clasps the drapery on the Empress's shoulder — as backsheesh. The men were delighted, and kissed my hand, in token of gratitude. I gave them also the money for the shekh, and took leave of them with the exclamation : " May God grant you a prosperous return to your country ! " They replied, warmly : "May God prolong your days, 0 Effendi ! " and as they moved away, I overheard old Mohammed again declare to Achmet : " Wallah, but this is a- good Frank ! He certainly has Islam in his heart!"