470 JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA.

reach the river, no trace of which could be seen. I rode up one of the highest ridges, and lo ! there were the tops of the date-groves in a hollow, not a quarter of a mile distant, on my right. The camels' heads were soon turned in that direction, and I encamped at once on the bank, where my beasts found sufficient grass and thorns for the first time in three days. The river here flows in a deep channel, buried among the hills, and there is neither cultivation nor population on the western bank. On the opposite side there was a narrow strip of soil, thickly planted with date-trees.

My camel-men kindled a fire in the splendid moonlight, and regaled themselves with the hind-quarters of a hyena, which they roasted in the coals and devoured with much relish. I had curiosity enough to eat a small piece, which was wellflavored though tough. The Nile roared grandly below our camp all night, in the pauses of the wind.