DONKEYS AND DONKEY-BOYS. 37

the loom, than cut with the saw and chisel. Through these

lattices of fine network, with borders worked in lace-like pat-

terns, and sometimes topped with slender turrets and pinnacles,

the wives of the Cairene merchants sit and watch the crowds

passing softly to and fro in the twilight of the bazaars, them-

selves unseen. It needed no effort of the imagination to people

the fairy watch-towers under which we rode daily, with forms

as beautiful as those which live in the voluptuous melodies of

Hafiz.

To see Cairo thoroughly, one must first accustom himself

to the ways of those long-eared cabs, without the use of which I would advise no one to trust himself in the bazaars. Don-

key-riding is universal, and no one thinks of going beyond the

Frank quarter on foot. If he does, he must submit to be fol-

lowed by not less than six donkeys with their drivers. A

friend of mine, who was attended by such a cavalcade for two

hours, was obliged to yield at last, and made no second attempt. When we first appeared in the gateway of our hotel, equipped

for an excursion, the rush of men and animals was so great,

that we were forced to retreat until our servant and the porter

whipped us a path through the yelling and braying mob. Af-

ter one or two trials, I found an intelligent Arab boy, named

Kish, who, for five piastres a day, furnished strong and ambi-

tious donkeys, which he kept ready at the door from morning

till night. The other drivers respected Kish's privilege, and thenceforth I had no trouble. The donkeys are so small that

my feet, nearly touched the ground, but there is no end to their

strength and endurance. Their gait, whether a pace or a gal-

lop, is so easy and light that fatigue is impossible. The dri-

vers take great pride in having high-cushioned red saddles, and