SCENERY OF THE DELTA. 29 an hour, I called out to a fisherman, seated on the bank : " 0 Fisherman, have you any fish ? " and he held up a string of them and made answer : " 0 Howadji, I have." This solemn form of address, which is universal in Arabic, makes the language very piquant to a student. During our second night on the river, we passed the site of ancient Sal's, one of the most renowned of Egyptian cities, which has left nothing but a few shapeless mounds. The country was in many places still wet from the inundation, which was the largest that had occurred for many years. The Fellahs were ploughing for wheat, with a single buffalo geared to a sharp pole, which scratched up the soil to the depth of three inches. Fields of maize and sugar-cane were frequent, and I noticed also some plantations of tobacco, millet, and a species of lupin, which is cultivated for its beans. The only vegetables we found for sale in the villages, were onions, leeks and tomatoes. Milk, butter and eggs are abundant and very good, but the cheese of the country is detestable. The habitations resemble ant-hills, rather than human dwellings, and the villages are depots of filth and vermin, on the most magnificent scale. Our boat was fortunately free from the latter, except a few cockroaches. Except the palm and acacia, without which a Nile journey would lose half its attractions, I saw few trees. Here and there stood a group of superb plane-trees, and the banana sometimes appeared in the gardens, but there is nothing of that marvellous luxuriance and variety of vegetation which is elsewhere exhibited in the neighborhood of the Tropics. On the evening of the third day we reached the town of Nadir, and, as there was no wind, went ashore for an hour 01 two. There was a cafe on the bank — a mud house, with two