CONTENTS. 1 1 Ruined Fortresses — The Camel-Men— A Rocky Chaos— Fakir Bender— The Akaba ofMahass — Camp in the Wilderness — The Charm of Desolation — The Nile again — Pilgrini3 from Dar-Fur— The Straggle of the Nile— An Arcadian Landscape — The Temple of Soleb— Dar Sukkot— The Land of Pates— The Island of Sai— A Sea of Sand— Camp by the River — A Hyena Barbecue, 4d7 CHAPTER XXXVI.

The Batn El-Hadjar, or Belly of Stone— Ancient Granite Quarries— The Village of Dal — A Ruined Fortress — A Wilderness of Stones— The Hot Springs of Ukme — A Windy Night — A Dreary Day in the Desert— The Shekh's Camel Fails— Descent to Samneh — The Temple and Cataract — Meersheh— The Sale of Abou-Sin— We Emerge from the Belly of Stone — \ Kababish Caravan— The Rock of Abcu-Seer — View of the Second Cataract — We reach Wadi- Haifa — Selling my Dromedaries — Farewell to Abou-Sin — Thanksgiving on the Ferry-boat— Parting with the Camelmen, 471 CHAPTER XXXVII.

Wadi Haifa — A Boat for Assouan — We Embark on the Nile Again — An Egyptian Dream— The Temples of Abou-Simbel— The Smaller Temple— The Colossi of Remeses II.— Vulgarity of Travellers — Entering the Great Temple — My Impressions— Character of Abou-Simbel — The Smaller Chambers — The Races of Men — Remeses and the Captive Kings — Departure, 486 CHAPTER XXXVIII.

I Lose my Sunshine, and Regain it — Nubian Scenery — Derr — The Temple of Amada — Mysterious Rappings — Familiar Scenes — Halt at Korosko — Escape from Shipwreck— The Temple of Sebooa — Chasing other Boats — Temple of Djerf Hossayn — A Backsheesh Experiment — Kalabshee — Temple of Dabod — We reach the Egyptian Frontior, 495 CHAPTER XXXIX.

Assouan — A Boat for Cairo — English Tourists — A Head-wind— Ophthalmia — Esneh — A Mummied Princess — Ali Effendi's Stories — A Donkey Afrite — Arrival at Luxor — The Egyptian Autumn — A Day at Thebes— Songs of the Sailors — Ali leaves mo — Ride to Dendera — nead-winds again — Visit to Tahtah — The House of Rufaa Bey, 50G CHAPTER XL.

Siout in Harvest-timo— A kind Englishwoman — A Slight Experience of Hasheesh— The Calm — Rapid Progress down the Nile — The Last Day of the Voyage — Arrival at Cairo — Tourists preparing for the Desert — Parting with Achmet — Conclu sion, 51J