CONTENTS. 1 1

Ruined Fortresses — The Camel-Men— A Rocky Chaos— Fakir Bender— The Akaba ofMahass — Camp in the Wilderness — The Charm of Desolation — The Nile again — Pilgrini3 from Dar-Fur— The Straggle of the Nile— An Arcadian Landscape — The Temple of Soleb— Dar Sukkot— The Land of Pates— The Island of Sai— A Sea of Sand— Camp by the River — A Hyena Barbecue, 4d7

CHAPTER XXXVI.

The Batn El-Hadjar, or Belly of Stone— Ancient Granite Quarries— The Village of

Dal — A Ruined Fortress — A Wilderness of Stones— The Hot Springs of Ukme — A Windy Night — A Dreary Day in the Desert— The Shekh's Camel Fails— Descent to Samneh — The Temple and Cataract — Meersheh— The Sale of Abou-Sin— We Emerge from the Belly of Stone — \ Kababish Caravan— The Rock of Abcu-Seer — View of the Second Cataract — We reach Wadi- Haifa — Selling my Dromedaries — Farewell to Abou-Sin — Thanksgiving on the Ferry-boat— Parting with the Camel- men, 471

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Wadi Haifa — A Boat for Assouan — We Embark on the Nile Again — An Egyptian

Dream— The Temples of Abou-Simbel— The Smaller Temple— The Colossi of Remeses II.— Vulgarity of Travellers — Entering the Great Temple — My Impres-

sions— Character of Abou-Simbel — The Smaller Chambers — The Races of Men — Remeses and the Captive Kings — Departure, 486

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

I Lose my Sunshine, and Regain it — Nubian Scenery — Derr — The Temple of Amada

— Mysterious Rappings — Familiar Scenes — Halt at Korosko — Escape from Ship-

wreck— The Temple of Sebooa — Chasing other Boats — Temple of Djerf Hossayn — A Backsheesh Experiment — Kalabshee — Temple of Dabod — We reach the Egyp-

tian Frontior, 495

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Assouan — A Boat for Cairo — English Tourists — A Head-wind— Ophthalmia — Esneh —

A Mummied Princess — Ali Effendi's Stories — A Donkey Afrite — Arrival at Luxor — The Egyptian Autumn — A Day at Thebes— Songs of the Sailors — Ali leaves mo — Ride to Dendera — nead-winds again — Visit to Tahtah — The House of Rufaa Bey, 50G

CHAPTER XL.

Siout in Harvest-timo— A kind Englishwoman — A Slight Experience of Hasheesh—

The Calm — Rapid Progress down the Nile — The Last Day of the Voyage — Arri-

val at Cairo — Tourists preparing for the Desert — Parting with Achmet — Conclu sion, 51J