98 JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA.

CHAPTEE VIII, UPPER EGYPT.

Calm — Mountains and Tombs — A Night Adventure in Ekhmin — Character of the Boatmen — Fair Wind — Pilgrims — Egyptian Agriculture— Sugar and Cotton— Grain — Sheep — Arrival at Kenneh — A Landscape — The Temple of Dendera — First Impressions of Egyptian Art — Portrait of Cleopatra — A Happy Meeting — We approach Thebes.

Our men were ready at the appointed time, and precisely twenty-four hours after reaching the port of Siout we spread our sails for Kenneh, and exchanged a parting salute with the boat of a New York physician, which arrived some hours after us. The nosth wind, which had been Wowing freshly during the whole of our stay, failed us almost within sight of the port, and was followed by three days of breathless calm, during which time . we made about twelve miles a day, by towing.

My friend and I spent half the time on shore, wandering inland through the fields and making acquaintances in the villages. We found such tours highly interesting and refreshing, but nevertheless always returned to our floating Castle of Indolence, doubly delighted with its home-like cabin and lazy divans. Many of the villages in this region are built among the mounds of ancient cities, the names whereof are faithfully enumerated in the guide-book, but as the cities themselves have