CONTENTS. 11

Eulned Fortresses—The Camel-Men—A Eocky Chaos—Fakir Bender—The Akaba

of Mahass—Camp in the Wilderness—The Charm of Desolation—The Nile again—

Pilgrims from Dar-Fiir—The Straggle of the Nile—An Arcadian Landscape—The

Temple of Soleb—Dar Sukk6t—The Land of Dates—The Island of Sai—A Sea of Sand—Camp by the Eivor—A Hyena Barbecue 457

CHAPTER XXXVI.

The Batn El-Hadjar, or Belly of Stone—Ancient Granite Quarries—The Village of Dal—A Euined Fortress—A Wilderness of Stones—The Hot Springs of Ukm6—A Windy Night—A Dreary Day in the Desert—The Shekh's Camel Fails—Descent to Samneh-The Temple and Cataract—Meersheh—The Sale of Abou-Sin-*-We Emerge from the Belly of Stone— A Kababish Caravan—The Eock of Abou-Seer— View of the Second Cataract—We reach Wadi-Halfa—Selling my Dromedaries—

Farewell to Abou-SIn—Thanksgiving on the Ferry-boat—Parting with the Camel-

men, 471

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Wadl Haifa—A Boat for Assouan—We Embark on the Nile Again—An Egyptian Dream—The Temples of Abou-Simbel—The Smaller Temple—The Colossi of Eemeses IL—Vulgarity of Travellers—Entering the Great Temple—My Impres- sions—Character of Abou-Simbel—The Smaller Chambers—The Eaces of Men— Bemeses and the Captive Kings—Departure, 486

CHAPTER XXXVni.

I Lose my Sunshine, and Eegain it—Nubian Scenery—Derr-The Temple of Amada

—Mysterious Eappings-Familiar Scenes—Halt at Korosko—Escape from Ship- wreck—The Temple of Sebooa—Chasing other Boats—Temple of Djerf Hossayn— A Backsheesh Experiment—Kalabshee—Temple of Dabdd—We reach the Egyp-

tian Frontier, 496

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Assouan—A Boat for Cairo—English Tourists—A Head-wind—Ophthalmia—Esneh—

A Mummied Princess—Ali Eflfendi's Stories—A Donkey Afrite—Arrival at Luxor —The Egyptian Autumn—A Day at Thebes—Songs of the Sailors—Ali leaves mo—Eide to Dendera—Head-winds again—Visit to Tahtah—The House of Eufaa

Bey, 506

CHAPTER XL.

Biout in Harvest-time—A kind Englishwoman—A Slight Experience of Hasheesh—

The Calm—Eapid Progress down the Nile—The Last Day of the Voyage—Arri-

val at Cairo-Tourists preparing for the Desert—Parting with Achmet—Conclu

rion. 611