CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

Leaying the Pjrramids—A Calm and a Breeze—A Coptic Visit—Minyeh—The Grottoes of Beni-Hassan—Doum Palms and Crocodiles—Djebel Aboufayda—Entrance into Upper Egypt—Diversions of the Boatmen—Siont— Its T<«nbs—A Landscape—A Bath, Tl CHAPTER VII.

Independence of Nile Life-The Dahabiyeh—Our Servants—Our Eesidenco—Our Manner of Living—The Climate—The Natives—Costume—Our Sunset Eepose—My Friend—A Sensuous Life Defended, 88 CHAPTER VIII.

Calm—Mountains and Tombs—A Night Adventure in Ekhmin—Character of the Boatmen—Fair Wind—Pilgrims—Egyptian Agriculture—Sugar and Cotton—Graiu —Sheep—Arrival at Kenneh—A Landscape—The Temple of Dendera—First Invpressions of Egyptian Ai —Portrait of Cleopatra—A Happy Meeting—"We approach Thebes, 98 CHAPTER IX.

Arrival at Thebes—Ground-Plan of the Eemains—"We Cross to the "Western Bank— Guides—The Temple of Goorneh—Valley of the Kings' Tombs—Belzonfs Tomb— The Eaces of Men—Vandalism of Antiquarians—Brace's Tomb—Memnon—The Grandfather of Sesostris-The Head of Amunopb—The Colossi of the Plain— Memnonian Music—The Statue of Eemeses—The Memnonium—Beauty of Egyptian Art—More Scrambles among the Tombs—The Bats of the Assasseef—Medeenet Abou—Sculptured Histories—The Great Court of the Temple—We return to Luxor, 118 CHAPTER X.

The Dancing Girls of Egypt—A N%ht Scene in Luxor—The Orange-Blossom and th© Apple-Blossom—The Beautiful Bemba—The Dance—Performance of the Apple-Blossom—The Temple of Luxor—A Mohammedan School—Gallop to Karnak— View of the Euins—The Great Hall of Pillars—Bedouin Diversions—A Night Eide—Karnak under the Full Moon—Farewell to Thebes, .... 181 CHAPTER XL The Temple of Hermontis—Esneli and its Temple—The Governor—El Kab by Torchlight—The Temple of Edfou—The Quarries of Djebel Silsileh—Ombos—Approach to Nubia—Change in the Scenery and Inhabitants—A Mirage -Arrival at Assouan, 146 CHAPTER XII.

An Ofllcial Visit—Achmet's Dexterity—The Island of Elephantine—Nubian Ohildrea--TriptoPhll8&—Linant Bey—The Island of Phil»—Sculptures—The Negro Bace-