92 JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA.

ing and other petty offences. On one occasion I fell in with a company of these people, who demanded my tarboosh, shoea and shawl, and would have taken them had I not been armed.

In general, we have found the Fellahs very friendly and well disposed. They greet us on our morning walks with " Sala mat ! " and " Sdhah el Kheyr ! " and frequently accompany us for miles. My friend's fowling-piece often brings around him all the men and boys of a village, who follow him as long as a pigeon is to be found on the palm-trees. The certainty of his shot excites their wonder. " Wallah ! " they cry ; " every time the Howadji fires, the bird drops." The fact of my wearing a tarboosh and white turban brings upon me much Arabic conversation, which is somewhat embarrassing, with my imperfect knowledge of the language ; but a few words go a great way. The first day I adopted this head-dress (which is convenient and agreeable in every respect), the people saluted mo with " good morning, Sidi ! " (Sir, or Lord) instead of the usual " good morning, Howadji ! " {i. e. merchant, as the Franks are rather contemptuously designated by the Arabs).

For this climate and this way of life, the Egyptian costume is undoubtedly much better than the European. It is light, cool, and does not impede the motion of the limbs. The turban thoroughly protects the head against the sun, and shades the eyes, while it obstructs the vision much less than a hat-brim.

The broad silk shawl which holds up the baggy trowsers, shields the abdomen against changes of temperature and tends to prevent diarrhoea, which, besides ophthalmia, is the only ailment the traveller need fear. The latter disease may be avoided by bathing the face in cold water after walking or any exercise which induces perspiration. I have followed this plan, and though my eyes are exposed daily to the full blaze of the sou,