50 UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN.

of the hyaena formed a weird lullaby, quite in keeping with our other surroundings. Ostriches are numerous on this plain but we did not happen to see any. Five hours' march brought us to an open forest of mimosas, and near this we met some messengers from O'Neill, who with the first caravan had safely reached Mpwapwa, the first stage of the journey. Another hour brought us to a beautiful wooded valley with a clear stream flowing down it, the swampy ground along its edge being full of holes punched by the huge feet of the elephants, which were in the habit of coming here to drink, while bones and skulls of elephants and buffaloes lay bleaching in the grass. Here we halted for some time, and then another two hours' march through fine forest, among glorious mountain scenery, brought us to an open glade, where we pitched our tents close by a mountain torrent, and under the shade of some fine acacias. Next morning we were on the move again, and climbed a rocky path which wound along through the forest between welltimbered mountain-peaks. On emerging from the pass on the summit of a steep ridge, we saw before us the Tubugwe valley, with corn-fields and redwalled villages scattered about. A steep winding path led us down into the valley, and we pitched our camp by the side of a stream which ran down its centre, under the shade of a magnificent mimosa.

After my work was over I went for a bathe in the