BAGAMOYO TO MPWAPWA. 39 crossing a steep stony ridge covered with open jungle, consisting mainly of ebony trees, into a beautiful valley with bright green grass, luxuriant vegetation, and the same tall white -stemmed tree which I had seen in the Wami valley. Soon afterwards we reached the Mkiindi river, a broad shallow stream flowing over a clean sandy bottom, and along its bed we waded for a mile or more, when we encamped on the farther side on some rising ground, from which we had a glorious view of the Usagara Mountains, which rose, peak after peak and range after range, to a distant purple mass behind which Mpwapwa was said to lie. Two more days' march through magnificent mountain scenery brought us to the district of Magubika, containing a number of villages and plenty of cultivation. The next three days' marches were very hard ones, and the packdonkeys gave us much trouble. The road lay over steep forest clad ridges and through deep gullies and ravines. At the top of one of the latter one of the donkeys lost his footing and fell, rolling over and over to the bottom, a depth of 200 feet. I thought he was killed, but he got up, shook himself, and walked off apparently none the worse. Many of these ravines were very beautiful. Streams of clear cool water murmured along the stony bottom or fell in miniature cascades from masses of rocks ; the steep banks were adorned with a variety of ferns and rich velvety clumps of dark-green moss ; overhead tall graceful bamboos