UNYOBO. 329 comfortable for Europeans, who find that a very little smoke goes a long way. In addition to this discomfort, the traveller who is particular on these little points may have rather a strong objection to the fleas which find their way into the hut in the grass that bestrews the floor. The sanitary arrangements in Unyoro are not so good as in Uganda, where the people are most particular about such matters.

In Unyoro, it is the custom for the near relatives of the late king to fight for the throne ; this has caused much bloodshed ; and now a continual succession of small raids goes on between Kabrega, Bionga, and Amfina. The two latter certainly do not bear any brotherly feeling to the former ; indeed, Amfina begged us to help him to fight for what he considers his own land.

Amfina has a remarkably intelligent face, a fine soldierly bearing, and is a thoroughly polished man.

Doubtless he has learnt much from the Arabs, though, unlike Mtesa, he does not speak their language well. He was very friendly, and gave us plenty of provisions ; but, like all the natives, he aUvni appetens wanted us to make him presents of all we possessed. As in Cairo, so in these parts, there is a continual cry of liacksheesh backsheesh ! His reception of us was very pleasing ; the divan was overspread with Turkish carpets, the seats and bolsters being covered with spotless