MURGHISON FALLS. 315 of the scene. Here and there we came across sandy, sunburnt patches, forming a striking contrast to the rich colouring of the undergrowth, and affording a pleasant lounge for monster crocodiles. Occasionally the temptation to take a shot at them was irresistible, but whether or no we killed any, I cannot tell, as crocodiles have a knack of falling into the water as soon as hit. In our wake we could see several hippopotami, one of whom, astonished doubtless at the unaccustomed sight, and indignant at such an invasion of his domain, charged the steamer, and made her quiver from stem to stern. This was not an unfrequent occurrence, and occasionally the violent shock does much damage, the screw of our boat having been injured more than once. During our sail, we came near some canoes, the occupants of which tried to race ; but when they found we were overtaking them, they ran their canoes to shore, and were soon hidden in the dense vegetation. Through breaks in the trees we could see the natives on the hills looking down on the strange sight of a steamer ; they rapidly disappeared when the steam-whistle was blown.

As we passed on we found that the hills closed in ahead of us, shutting out the light, and soon we could hear the roar of the falls in the distance.

The water became more and more turbulent as we went on through the gathering gloom, till at last a sudden turn in the river brought us into daylight