304 UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN.

luxury of being able to indjilge in a refreshing bath. There is a road along the west side of the river, but as the natives were not friendly, it was not then in use ; now, however, it is open, and a new station has been formed at Wadelei, and another at the north-west corner of the Luta Nzige, called Mahehi. The journey by water to Magungo, in Unyoro, takes about three days.

Unfortunately for us, about a foot of the stearnpiping of the Khedive had been lost while she was being carried in pieces to Dufli, and it had not yet been replaced, so we embarked on the Nyanza, leaving Dufli on December 21, 1878. The voyage up the Nile, which at this part forms a grand chain of lakes, is one which I shall never forget. The tall papyrus, waving lazily in the soft pure breeze, fringes the shore ; beyond lie broad green fields of fast-ripening dhurra ; while on either side, in the far distance, are long ranges of hills, with here and there a peak, like Mount Meto, towering up to a height of 1200 feet, and forming sharply denned fantastic outlines against the deep-blue sky.

Eight well we steamed along until we came to " Arbatascha " (Fourteen), a curious rock, crowned by a pretty village, which derives its name from the fact that here fourteen chiefs pay in to the Egyptian Government their tax of grain. Here we stopped for a few hours to lay in a fresh supply