284 " AHAI OW MAZADA !"

river without again undergoing so trying an experience. It was found in a Shilluk meslira farther downstream, a tiny track through the green, unburnt grass, leading deeper and deeper into the water. It appeared as though 1 should have to brave the crocodiles, and swim to the steamer, which could not approach very near, when my eye caught sight of the ambatch raft of a Shilluk, half hidden in the grass. This consists of a number of half-rotten sticks of the light, pithy wood, thick at the base and tapering off quickly, thus lending itself well to being tied into a raft with taper bows and a square stern. Joy filled my breast ; squatting on it, finding myself seated in water as the raft sank beneath me, with a push from the sailors behind I paddled my way to the steamer, an object indeed. As I left there was an ominous rustle in the reeds, the sailors cried " Timsagh " (Crocodile), and scattered like fluff* on the breeze.

Later on, in the darkness, came shouts from the bank of the river, and a noise as if of penny trumpets. This probably indicated a fight going on, which is not of infrequent occurrence just here, though gratitude for mercies vouchsafed should move the inhabitants, inasmuch as in four years their cattle possessions increased by no less than sixty-six per cent.

The Garden of Eden left behind—its serpent slid down a tree as I approached it one morning, and entered the river—its inhabitants were left to the