64 COOKERY OF THE ARABS.

pose, in the following manner : A large hole was dug in the ground ; the inside was plaistered with clay ; after which they put fire in the hole till the sides were dry ; they then put the sheep in, and the top was covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire. The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it was of exquisite flavour ; the roasted mutton also was equally well flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast ; for I had desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own custom ; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat ; and vice versa, that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables !

The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified with bastions mounting cannon ; it is about a mile in circumference. Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north, south, and west, at the foot of the moun-