i6 DHURRA,
place was well supplied with meat. Greeks are to be found
everywhere : there is no place too out-of-the-way for them to
thrive in, and they make money wherever they go. A great many of them, besides selling bad spirits, beer, and groceries,
add considerably to their incomes by lending money to the
natives, of course at usurious rates of interest. No vegetables are grown, and the whole of the surrounding
country is desert. The nearest village is Tokar on Khor Baraka,
two days' journey away; and there, after the rains, a little
dhurra is grown. Dhurra (the sorghum viilgare of Linnaeus)
is the staple article of food throughout the Soudan : it contains
a great deal of starch, and is said to be more nourishing than
wheat-flour. The natives cook it in a variety of ways, and
add beans or onions, when obtainable, to it. Horses will not
thrive unless they get a daily supply of it, and a small quantity
is of great use in keeping the riding-camels in good condition.
In crossing, too, such a desert as that between Korosko and Abou Hamed, it is necessary to carry some for the baggage-
camels as well : it is wonderful on how little food they can do, when pushed to it. A Greek has set up a small shanty, which he dignifies by the
title, " Hotel du Soudan," and advertises hot and cold baths.
Fortunately we had no occasion to try its merits, otherwise
than by sending some clothes to his wife to be washed : for
these she charged us at the rate of two dollars per dozen,
counting a pair of socks as two articles ; so that what they
lacked in custom, they evidently tried to make up in their
prices, when, as they say in America, a stranger happened to
come along."
Beyond the island on which the town is built, Souakim con-
tinues for some distance in suburbs, containing a somewhat
extensive if not very inviting bazaar.