A ''PALAVER'' WITH THE AUTHORITIES. 91 our caravan winding along the river-bed, were seized with a panic ; and with our glasses we could see them crowding to the summit of the hill on which the village was situated. We placed our camp, contrary to our usual custom, in the river-bed, as the Arabs were afraid to spend the night among the trees and bushes until we had interviewed and made friends with the people. Here it was necessary, before proceeding any farther, to have a "palaver " with the authorities. Accordingly, as soon as we arrived, Bayrumphy and two other horsemen rode up to the village. They very soon returned, bringing with them the sheik's son, and three other men. The sheik himself was away. They carried spears and shields, as all do in these countries. These they left on the bank of the river opposite to that on which we were sitting, discussing our luncheon ; and crossed over to us, accompanied by Bayrumphy and the other horsemen.

Their costume was exceedingly simple and unpretending.

It consisted of a scrap of dirty cotton cloth tied round the waist, with an undergarment of leather. These were, however, the grandees of the village ; and we afterwards found that scarcely any one, not of exalted rank, indulged himself in such an excess of raiment. We presented them each with a piece of Manchester cotton cloth, with which they were delighted ; and proceeded, without further delay, to divest themselves of what little clothing they possessed, and to wTap our gifts round their waists instead. To the sheik's son we presented, in addition, a piece of maroon velvet, on which were fastened little silvery ornaments like buttons. This he put round his neck in place of a necklace of dried palm-leaf, which he discarded. On his wrists he wore palm-leaf bracelets ; and as we had no better to give him, he stuck to his own, which were indeed far prettier than any we could have given him in their place, their light-