A FEAST. 197 years ; they thought he meant native years, which are six months, so, never having seen such a town as Dem Suleiman, they concluded that it must be the end of their journey.

We stayed ten days at Dem Suleiman, hoping to hear of the arrival of a steamer at Meshera-er-Kek, and during this time we were able to obtain very interesting information and see some curious sights.

November 25 was the great El-'Eed es-Sugheiyir feast, and we were awakened at sunrise by the music of the band and the volleys of the guns. Dressing quickly, we were just in time to attend Gressi Pasha's reception at his divan. He was dressed in his best, and even wore a new fez, which was a wonderful thing, for, having lost all his clothes in crossing a river, his ordinary attire was worn and travel-stained.

His breast was adorned with orders and medals, among them the Medjidiah, and, what was more to my taste, the Crimean medal with all its clasps.

As soon as we were seated, in filed all the notables of the place ; and a motley crew they were. There were, amongst others, the sub-governor, the kadi, officers, Arab fakirs, and several native chiefs, all dressed in their war-paint. Of course all wanted backsheesh ; indeed that day is a very " dear day," a round of visits having to be paid and backsheesh given everywhere. All servants expect on this day, as on the day after Eamadan, a present of new clothes; and it was a heavy business day at the