THE LAST IVOBY MEECHANT. 171 and is noted for the care and attention whicli lie pays to the welfare of his retinue. Every year four nuggars laden with supplies come for him from Khartoum, and we heard that almost any luxury may be obtained at his store. A present of a few good cigars and a cake of scented soap from him was very acceptable to us.

Herr Buchta, the Austrian photographer, arrived at Djour Ghattas from Lado, via Shambil, on November 11, and as he brought no news of a steamer, we decided to wait no longer, but to proceed by the other route to Khartoum, that is, via Dem Suleiman, Kalaka, Darfour, and Kordofan.

At Djour Ghattas we said good-bye to Ibrahim Effendi Lebib, who had been our factotum from Lado ; and Hassan Aga was given to us to act as guide to Khartoum. He professed to know the road well, but he proved a useless fellow ; he could neither read nor write, and moreover was much occupied in attending to the wants of his two wives. We much regretted the change, for, though Ibrahim Effendi was not perfect, he could read and write, and was much interested in our map, doing his best to obtain reliable information for us, and to keep us well supplied with food.

Gressi Pasha kindly offered to accompany us as far as Dem Suleiman, and on November 15 we left Djour Grhattas. Just as the sun was setting, and casting a rosy hue over the landscape, we mounted